Jazz After Midnight

Context

My graduation collection is called Jazz After Midnight, and it’s probably one of the most personal collections I’ve designed throughout my degree. I grew up dancing, so theatre, costuming and dramatics have always been a huge part of my life and creative direction. I’ve always loved how a costume can completely transform someone when they step onto a stage, and how clothing can tell a story before someone even starts performing.

So, for this collection, I wanted to create four different characters, each with their own personality and story, rather than just designing four separate outfits. Visually, I took a lot of inspiration from Moulin Rouge, Old Hollywood glamour and 1920s nightlife. I was really drawn to the extravagance of that era, particularly the corsets, dramatic tailoring, satin, feathers and exaggerated silhouettes. But as I started researching the 1920s, I became interested in what fashion actually represented for women during that time.

The 1920s were a really interesting period for female identity. Women were increasingly experimenting with traditionally masculine clothing, including suiting and boyish silhouettes. Researcher Laura Doan describes this as a period of cultural confusion around gender, where masculine fashion could have multiple meanings when worn by women. This was significant because suiting had traditionally been associated with male authority and power, so women adopting these styles challenged expectations of how they should dress and present themselves.

At the same time, there was the glamorous Modern Girl, who challenged expectations in a completely different way. Through shorter dresses, makeup, nightlife and a more openly confident femininity, women were moving away from traditional expectations of modesty and domestic life. I wanted to explore both sides of this through my collection. Some of my characters embrace structured masculine tailoring, while others express their femininity through corsetry, draping and glamorous silhouettes.

I think these ideas are still really relevant today because we’re still having conversations about gender, body image, femininity and how women choose to present themselves. I wanted to show that there isn’t just one way for a woman to express confidence or empowerment.

Look 1

For Look One, I’ve upcycled fabric from my own semi-formal dress, which gives the garment a really personal connection to my past. I’ve also incorporated second-hand fabrics sourced from The Nest Community and created the dramatic boa using fabric scrap strips to mimic feathers.

Look 2

Look Two is made entirely from second-hand velvet fabrics sourced from The Nest Community. I wanted to take these existing materials and transform them into something that feels completely new and luxurious, showing that repurposed fabrics can still create really dramatic, high-end fashion.

Look 3

For Look Three, I’ve used second-hand fabrics and offcuts from my own sleepwear business, Lady Lili. I’ve also used fabric scraps to create feather-like embellishments, allowing me to achieve that theatrical effect while finding another purpose for materials that might otherwise have been discarded.

Look 4

Finally, Look Four combines fabric offcuts from Lady Lili with new beaded fabrics that I purchased in New York during Lady Lili’s debut at New York Fashion Week. This makes the look particularly meaningful to me because it brings together two major parts of my fashion journey. I’ve also incorporated fabric scraps around the collar and coat hem to create additional texture and drama.

Conclusion

Across all four looks, I’ve really tried to focus on giving existing materials a new life, while still maintaining the glamour and theatrical impact that inspired the collection in the first place.

Ultimately, Jazz After Midnight brings together my background in dance and performance, my interest in women’s changing identities throughout fashion history, and my own experiences as a designer. I wanted to create a collection that feels theatrical, dramatic and luxurious, but is also considered in what the clothing communicates, where the materials come from and how they’re used.

For me, this collection is really about showing that fashion can tell a story, challenge expectations and create something beautiful from materials that already exist.